A comparative study of pattern engineering for the current size and shape of Australian women.

Abstract

This thesis examines and analyses from an anatomical and anthropometric perspective, two pattern engineering systems currently used by the clothing industry for the production of female garments. To the best of the researcher‘s knowledge no similar study has been previously conducted in Australia. The research is significant in that pattern engineering systems provide the basis from which all garments are produced. Biological changes in human female morphology over the past century have impacted significantly on the clothing industry‘s ability to provide garments that meet an acceptable fit standard. Rising concerns regarding the increase in overweight and obesity provide an even greater challenge for the production of well fitting female garments. Many pattern engineering systems rely on a long standing assumption of proportionality based on a fixed relationship between specific body dimensions, such as height and breadth, to calculate other body dimensions. These systems overlook relative changes in body dimensions that have occurred and are continuing to occur at the present time. In contrast, the use of direct measurements requires no assumptions regarding body shape and accommodates all body types with equal proficiency. This study compared two such systems, testing the fit of dress toiles made in compliance with the specifications of both types of systems, and fitted on a group of adult females, each of whom conformed to one of 5 body types anthropometrically identified in the Australian population by the author in earlier research. The dress toiles constructed according to direct measurement principles were significantly superior in fit to those constructed according to calculated proportional principles. They were also the preferred choice of 100% of subjects when rated for comfort and ease of movement. The following conclusions were made: (i) that the assumptions concerning body size and proportions underlying calculated proportional pattern drafting systems are questionable, particularly in view of the accelerating secular trend of obesity, and (ii) that direct measurement pattern cutting systems which focus on and use current body shape data are better able to accommodate unpredictable and unspecified variations in the size and shape of the human female body. The lack of standardisation of body measurement techniques was discussed with particular emphasis on the bust circumference which is fundamental in calculated proportional systems. Note was also made of the divergence away from technical skills and expertise in anthropometry which may be a result of the restricted curriculum currently offered by training institutions in Australia and elsewhere. There was strong agreement between the results and conclusions of this study with recent industry initiatives, which are pressing for an anthropometric survey of the population in order to obtain data for new practical clothing size standards. In this regard it was proposed that body shape categories should be considered in clothing size [shape] standards, as a focus on body shape may provide a more workable approach for classification of the relationship between key components of female morphology.